The Belvedere of Piazza del Cannone is one of the best-loved balconies in Tropea's old town, suspended over the Tyrrhenian Sea with a view stretching all the way to the islands on the horizon. The historic cannon that gives the square its name is no mere ornament: it recalls the centuries when the Calabrian coast was threatened by raids of pirates and corsairs, and Tropea's belvederes served as lookout points to scan the horizon and spot enemy sails in time. A bell or a shout of alarm was enough to bring the town to safety. As you lean out, notice how the cliff plunges straight into the sea: a natural defence that made Tropea almost impregnable. Here Elena's grandfather's diary jots down a name that changes everything: Vittorio Sparano, known as Wave-Hand. Legend tells that this feared sea-raider became a protector of fishermen, and from a rock just like this one he lit a light in the storm. A clue for the crew: along the railing, look for the spot where the coast forms a small cove — according to the diary, that is where the boats slipped in to safety. The belvedere is freely reachable on foot from the centre; at sunset the golden light on the sea is the finest sight of all, and the climb is well worth a breathless pause.